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Fernandina Travelers

Saturday, September 30, 2006

30 Sept - O'Fallon, IL - Wal-Mart Parking Lot!


We left St. Joseph, MO, this am. A few things we noticed about the town in parting: Carlos O’Kelly Mexican Food, many vacant storefronts in downtown, “No problem,” response again to “thank you”, lots of neighborhood watering holes, St. Patrick’s Mexican Fiesta, long lines at all the fast food windows, inaccessibility to Missouri River waterfront, many smokers, and the fact that St. Joe is a part of the greater Kansas City area as demonstrated by the Kansas City events in the newspaper (KC) from the annual debutante ball to chili cook-offs to the football game and NASCAR.

Because this was a hot weekend in Kansas City, we drove east instead of south so that we would miss the traffic. No one told us about the road! The highway patrol must collect all the pieces that have fallen off cars and have those warehoused in some great lost and found for anyone crazy enough to brave another trip to pick up pieces. Other than the awful road, the lush green fields and hills were beautiful. Autumn is beginning to color the landscape.

As we approached St. Louis, we got caught in the traffic and interstate system. We drove much farther than intended, stopping in O’Fallon, IL. The Mississippi was its muddy self and the sunset was incredibly beautiful.

To tonight we are enjoying the hospitality of a Wal-Mart parking lot, and glad to have it. It is noisy so far with a steady stream of cars coming and going. I think everyone comes here to shop. The photo of the day speaks for itself!

Friday, September 29, 2006

Friday, 29 Sept - St. Joseph, MO


No travel today. (Also no photo ops.) Instead we picked up our mail – thanks to our house sitter, Pratt; Margaret got a pedicure; we had two really great meals out (no home cooking this time); and visited the Pony Express museum here in St. Joseph, MO.

We also spent much of the day cleaning, vacuuming, cleaning cat litter box, and other little things that take time and can’t be done enroute. We also took the time to go through the mail. I did get my new license plate for the motor home so I’m now legit. Don’t tell the highway patrol, I had been running around with an “illegal” plate (moved from the truck). I wasn’t extremely worried since I had all the sale paperwork, but if the police ran a check on the previous license plate, it would have been a little touchy.

There was a sight to see this a.m. in St. Joseph. As we started our rounds, we thought we’d stop at McDonalds for an Egg McMuffin. When we turned into the parking lot, I thought I was in the wrong place. There were TWO drive-through windows, each line was backed-up out into the street. The parking lot – quite large – was full, no room to pull in. And Margaret looked inside and there were lines at the counter. Never seen anything like it. Everyone in St. Joseph must spend their time eating out – at least in the morning.

We had dinner at a Mexican restaurant that was highly recommended by the RV park staff. It was quite good – at least the two margaritas were good! No actually, the food was excellent – La Mesa in St. Joseph for the next time you’re in town.

We’ll be turning in the rental car tomorrow a.m. and heading east. My computer trip planning software says go through Kansas City, but there is a NASCAR event there this weekend and the KC Chiefs are playing at home, so we thought it best to give it a wide berth.

Today’s photo is for those of you, like me, who were wondering what would be inside a “Corn Palace” in Mitchell, SD. It is a version of the usual arena complex, currently configured to play basketball. Obviously when there are musical performances, they change the seating. But the motif of using “raw” corn on the outside is carried inside. All the wall decorations reflect the year’s theme and constructed entirely of corn and corn related products.

Thursday, September 28, 2006

28 Sept - Thursday - St. Joseph, Missouri


A short day of driving, only 112 miles, but we wanted to be in St. Joseph, MO, to pick up forwarded mail from Florida. Getting our mail on a regular basis has been a challenge because we don’t know where we’re going to be in advance. But other than a few surprises when the mail does arrive(!) things have worked out pretty well.

Today wasn’t a big photo op day. The morning was spent breaking camp and getting on the road. We were fortunate to find an excellent RV park in St. Joseph, MO, - right in town – but it took forever (seemingly) - to get a rental car. As a result, we didn’t get started on our local sight seeing until after 6:00 p.m.

Not to be outdone, we had dinner at a local casino. Definitely not gourmet, but getting a NY strip steak for under $13 and a Pacific Salmon fillet for under $12 is pretty good deal. We then checked out the gaming tables but didn’t come out ahead. Didn’t lose much, but had a good time.

From here, it is roughly a 6 day drive to Florida at our comfortable average of 225 miles / day AND if we don’t stop for more than one night. Our experience on the road has been that two days of driving is about all we’re comfortable with. Then we need a couple of nights in one place to relax. So the earliest we’ll be back in Florida is 6 October, but that could change.

In case I haven’t mentioned it, one reason for our low mileage/day average has been the terrible condition of the US Interstate road system. I’d like to report the usual highway is smooth, with rough roads the exception. However, it is exactly the opposite. It is very noticeable when the road is smooth. Usually the problem is the bridges / overpasses. The transition to the bridge / overpass is quite a severe vertical bump with several patches on the bridge. Then there are the expansion joints, filled (badly) with tar. Every one is a jolt to the motor home. All in all, it’s quite a tiring ride.

When it is a “challenging” photo-op day, I wonder if I should just omit photos, or put something in from an earlier day. I think the photos add visual pizzazz, no matter when it was taken, so I’m including the above photo. Prairie dogs are a common sight in the plains. Usually they are busy running and jumping in their holes, but occasionally you catch one close to the road sitting up. Not a great shot, but it is what you see when driving through their territory.

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Sept 27 - Mitchell, SD - milo stalks


I dont' how many of you have every heard of milo, much less seen it. My uncles used to grow it on their farms in North Carolina. It is grown primarily as a crop to feed cattle in the winter. It is a grain (as you can see here) and can be stored and used later for cattle feed.

The stalks shown here are about 7 - 10 inches long. It's a wonder that the birds don't come along and eat the decorations!

27 Sept - Mitchell, SD - Corn Palace


This photo is of the workman finishing up nailing on the latest batch of milo stalks (see the next (previous?) photo of the milo stalks). He was using a nail gun to speed up the job. But as Margaret mentioned earlier, it still takes them about 3 months to finish up the new decorations each year.

I still think of it as a stationary Rose Parade where everything has to be "natural".

27 Sept - Corn Palace - Mitchell, SD


As reported earlier(?), the Corn Palace was totally unexpected - another come-on series of Interstate billboards - designed to sucker the weary traveler to spend their hard-earned bucks on another shyster operation. But no, this one was free - really, free. Only the concession stand was designed to lighten your wallet. But this was really low-key.

The first picture (above) is the workman finishing up nailing on another set of milo stalks to the plywood backgroun. The stalks of milo is shown in the next (previous?) photo (I can't keep the sequence straight since I post one with the intial thought and next one shows up first! Go figure.)

Who knows what the next exit will reveal? State-tuned!
Wayne

27 Sept - Wednesday - Mitchell, SD and Council Bluffs, IA


Wayne writes:
Before turning the computer over to Margaret, I thought I’d bring you up to date on today’s drive. It was close to the longest day on record (this trip) – over 324 miles. As Margaret will tell you, it was a tough day; not so much the distance as the conditions.

I didn’t think it there would be much to report in terms of photo ops, but we found “The Corn Palace”! Who’d thought?

A piece of good news. We fueled up in Rapid City, SD (at $2.51); and this afternoon , after driving 522 miles we topped off (at $2.49/gal) with an average mileage rate of 12.6 mpg. Not too shabby for 24,000 pound RV! And diesel prices keep getting lower and lower and lower! Hooray!

Now over to Margaret:

Today was a marathon drive, finally leaving Chamberlain, SD, early and stopping for the night in Council Bluff, IA, in a beautiful state park on a lake. The day was made difficult by intermittent rain, never hard but enough to make the roads slick and the windshield wipers smear; and the bad road conditions which went from broken pavement to one lane switches.

Our break for the day was a visit to the world’s only Corn Palace in Mitchell, SD. Have you been there? Well, it is worth the trip! It’s a-maizing-ing! This is one inventive way to advertise the bounty of the heartland! That or it is the world’s largest bird feeder.

Lewis and Clark traveled through this area in 1805 declaring it the Great American desert unsuitable for anything except buffalo. So the corn palace was intended to put Mitchell on the map and prove L & C wrong. So build it they did, and many come to see it. A festival in late September celebrates the fertility of the area and its people, and the design for the coming year.

The palace we saw today is actually the third and is used not only as a tourist attraction but as a community center featuring stage shows (Peter, Paul and Mary on October 5), trade shows, high school basketball games, proms and graduations. The inside has corn mosaics as well. Otherwise, it is a modern gymnasium / theatre / ballroom.

With few exceptions, the design is changed annually. Materials are corn (in 12 colors), Milo, rye, oat heads, and sour dock. The corn is cut in half lengthwise and the grains bundled before being nailed to the building. This year the corn harvest was poor due to the very hot summer. The side benefit was that the corn already on the building had not deteriorated, so only the grains were being replaced. There was a crew of four doing that.

So the theme is decided, the art work drawn of black roofing paper with colors, and then that is tacked to the building. Then the corn, all the 275,000 half ears, is nailed in place! They describe it as a very large corn-by-number project!

WBH writes:
The first photo is of the overview of the Corn Palace. I think of it as a stationary Rose Parade where almost everything has to be "natural". The exterior is nailed-in-place using 12 different colors of corn, milo, rye, sour dock, and grasses used in the decorations. The next two photos are close ups of the workers putting the materials in place and a close up of the milo clumps used on the wall.

Tuesday, September 26, 2006

26 Sept - Tuesday - Chamberlain, SD


To bring this blog truly up to date, it is being prepared on Tuesday, 26th - the same day as the travel. No more after-the-fact reporting!

We are camped on the banks of the Missouri River, in Chamberlain, SD, about 140 miles west of the Minnesota / South Dakota state line. Although we didn't drive far today (about 205 miles), it was about as far as we cared to go. The wind was strong and the road rough with lots of repair work going on by the South Dakota DOT. A few of the one-lane sections were actually less than one lane - someone put the pylons inside the thru-lane! And there were a couple of bridges under repair that were down-right scary in terms of narrow passage!

The photo for this blog was taken yesterday in the Black Hills near Mt. Rushmore. One of the challenges to a photographer is how to capture general scenery. It seems like every turn in the road brings new ohs & ahs. Unfortunately, they all seem to look alike when you get the film back (or look at on the computer). Nevertheless, this is one that seemed to capture the essence of the Black Hills. Rocky crags nestled among the pines with scurrying clouds against a wonderful blue sky. Enjoy.

Tomorrow, we're off to Nebraska and Iowa. Onward and southward - wagons, HO!

25 Sept - G.Washington Profile


After you leave the main entrance to the Mt. Rushmore Nat'l Memorial and take SD244 west, you round a bend and there is a sign saying, "Mt. Rushmore Profile". I don't know how many folks stop to look. It is a most interesting perspective on the carving. Unfortunately, only George is seen. But it's still worth a stop.

I know folks don't stop because there were two mountain sheep grazing beside the road as I took this shot and no one noticed them. Yes, I do have a photo of the sheep which I may use at a later date.

25 September - Monday - Mr. Rushmore (finally)


Because today is to be our last day in the Rapid City area, we figured we’d better go and do Mt. Rushmore as real tourists!

Margaret writes:
And we did. It is quite impressive up close and on the approach driving north from Custer State Park. Imagine coming around a tight curve in the midst of the forest, or approaching a one-lane tunnel chiseled out of the mountain – and there they are (the Rushmore carvings), catching the sunlight.

The aspens are lovely too, shades of yellow, luminous in the sunlight making the pines even darker by contrast. The ground sparkled like diamonds, glittered with mica and pyrite. I started gathering stones and pieces, then realized it was a silly thing to do.

Wayne risked life and limb, setting up his tripod and camera in the middle of the road. It was truly amazing how many cars speed by completely missing the vista or the object of his lens.

Wayne writes:
Hard to believe how much Margaret can go on in person. But when handed a computer and told to write, she writes three meager paragraphs. I, on the other hand, find it hard to stop typing. Some call it free-flow; others, rambling!

I find South Dakota to be a real photographic inspiration. Not only the usual stuff, but the trees, rocks, plains, gullies, everywhere you look there is a photo op. I could spend a lot of time here. Now if I could just learn how to capture what I see and do it justice.

A point of clarification. Margaret mentioned me setting up the tripod in the middle of the road to capture the Rushmore carvings through the tunnel. A little known aspect of digital photography and Adobe Photoshop, is that if you take a photograph AND two others, one f-stop over and one f-stop under of exactly the same image, you can merge these in software and accommodate both the shadows and the highlights. In order for this to work however, all three images must be exactly the same, i.e., no hand-holding; it must be from a tripod. I’m not a tripod-person by nature, but for this “experiment”, it’s a must. I’ll let you know how it came out when I get home to a “real” computer!

The other thing I realized last night that I have been writing these blogs and the single-photo posting in reverse order. It was the order I thought of it, but I realized that when it’s all posted, the single-photo comes up first (it was done last) and the background explanation comes later. I apologize for mixing this and hope you were able to put it all together in your head while reading.

To finish up our day(s) in Rapid City, we dropped off the week’s load of laundry. We have found it a lot easier to have someone else do the washing and folding instead of wasting 2 – 3 hours in a noisy, smelly Laundromat when we could be out sightseeing (or shopping!). After some thought, we realized that after you count in the soap, bleach, and quarters, having someone else do it isn’t much more expensive than doing it yourself! Not to mention the time involved.

We have really enjoyed this RV park, perched on the edge of the hill above Rapid City. It’s a lot like Mulholland Drive and the Hollywood Hills with a view of the lights of LA beneath. Very enjoyable.

Tomorrow it’s on the road again. Not much to see between here and eastern South Dakota, but it’s gotta be done.

Monday, September 25, 2006

24 Sept - B1B Bomber and WBH


Margaret pointed out that there were few (no?) pictures of yours truly on any of the blogs. There are several possible comments to that observation, but to avoid marital conflict, I handed Margaret the camera and went aircraft posing.

From our days in middle Georgia, we came to believe that the B1B bomber was the loudest airplane ever produced. At least it seemed that way when it overflew our home. For those of you who care, there is also a photo of yours truly with a B-29 propeller!

24 Sept - Children's Boots at Wall Drug Store, Wall, SD


This is by no means the entire boot selection but I found it fun visually. Outside, the sign says "A Free Boot with any left boot purchased!" Margaret did buy a silver frog key chain here. Don't have a picture of it - ask to see it.

Sunday - 24 Sept - Badlands, Grasslands, Wall Drug, and Air Force Museum


After exploring South and West, we headed East today to check out the grasslands and the South Dakota Badlands. Driving through the rolling hills, it’s easy to get disoriented. One minute you’re in a slight gully and can’t see anything except the hills around you; the next, you’re on a rise and you can see from horizon to horizon.

Now that the storm clouds have moved south, we have gloriously blue sky and hundreds of white puffy – what I call – layer clouds gliding overhead. The blue sky is a most unusual shade of blue – not the blue we’re used to in Florida or anywhere else we’ve been. I think it has something to do with the low humidity and low sun angle. Maybe it’s something else? I keep trying to capture the essence of the blue in photos but can’t do it justice.

After driving for about 45 minutes (and seemingly getting nowhere) we decided to take the scenic route – 25 miles of dirt / gravel road. It is on the map and there were farms / ranches along the way, but we really felt we were in the middle of nowhere! First there were the gullies with muddy water remaining from the previous rains, then there were the bare rocks and hills, then vistas of the Badlands to the South and the Black Hills to the west, the occasional bison, prairie dogs everywhere you looked, and finally Margaret tried to run over a rattlesnake in the road but missed. I think she hit a couple of his rattles because when she backed up to take a look, he looked pretty mad.

I must not forget our visit to Scenic, SD. I don’t know who thought up the name but it is in the middle of nowhere (where we went today) and looks like someone’s idea of what a deserted western town should look like -- and probably, in fact, was one. Except I don’t know who would ever go there on purpose. Yes, people were living there, far outnumbered by the horses and steers, and I guess some of the “stores” were open for business at certain times of the year, but it looked desolate. Great photo op’s though, I’ll try to include one as a stand-alone so you can get some idea. There were also some pretty large horns on the local cows in the corrals.

Even though we hadn’t planned to drive on dirt roads, this is one time we’re glad we did. The scenery was beautiful and spectacular in a special kind of way. Not soaring mountains or waterfalls, but incredible shades of green, ochre, ivory, and brown.

When we finally got back to a paved road, we found ourselves in Wall, SD. The Wall Drug Store advertising signs – Free Ice Water – are seen in many places in the northwest. Sort of like Visit Lookout Mountain in Chattanooga, TN. But what a store. It occupied an entire city block in Wall and carried everything under the sun. I didn’t see any used cars for sale, but they had just about everything else, from quality western wear (boots, shirts, coats, etc) to junky trinkets you’d see in any tourist trap. There was the omni-present café (we split a BBQ sandwich, more like a sloppy joe); a miniature T-Rex in the back yard, rocks from the Dakotas, and book stores. Check out www.walldrug.com to see if they have anything you need! By the way, we were struck by the similarity to a business in St. Petersburg, FL where we grew up, called “Webb’s Drug Store – the World’s Most Unusual Drug Store", complete with a mermaid show. Wonder who came up with the idea first?

On the way back to Rapid City, we swung through the Air Force Museum just outside the base at Ellsworth AFB. They had a small collection of various aircraft including a B-29, KC-135 tanker, B-52 BUFF, B-1B bomber, B-66 and lots of small trainers.

Margaret says to remind everyone of some of the “interesting” business names we’ve seen including Chubby Chipmunk Chocolates, Prairie Berry Winery (we were going to go in but a tour bus arrived at the same time and we didn’t want to fight the crowd), and Holy Smoke RV Resort.

Sunday, September 24, 2006

Saturday - Sept 23rd Lead, Deadwood, Sturgis, SD


The day began with a promise of clearing, with patches of blue sky to the north. I was awakened early with the sound of “rolling thunder”, well not exactly because that was the phrase for B-52 bombing runs in Vietnam, but Ellsworth AFB is less than 15 miles from our campsite – we can see it in the distance since we’re on top of a hill. At 6:30 a.m., several B-52’s took off. It sounded like one continuous jet engine roaring and went on for about 30 minutes until they were clear of the area.

We rolled out and after a hearty breakfast at Perkin’s Pancake house, headed north toward Sturgis, Deadwood, and Lead (pronounce leed – as in the verb, to lead). Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate and turned into a gray, overcast day with gusts to 40 mph.

Thinking it was not going to be “good” photo shooting day, we didn’t take any cameras. Big mistake. We saw things we didn’t expect to see, including one of the world’s largest open pit gold mine – the Homestake mine in Lead, SD. This mine was the start of the first gold mining company to go public on the New York Stock Exchange and made many people very wealthy. The following description is taken from www.homestaketour.com web site. We did not have an opportunity to visit the mine processing facility this trip but we will when we return.

Before its closing in 2002 Homestake Gold Mine was the oldest, largest and deepest mine in the Western Hemisphere, reaching more than 8000 feet below the town of Lead.

Today’s photo is from the Lead, SD, web-site and is attributable to Johnny Sundby Photography. The photo is of the Open Cut Gold Mine in Lead, SD

The town of Deadwood is a story in itself. Besides being the site of Wild Bill Hickok’s murder here in 1876 (his grave site is here along with Calamity Jane’s), Gen George Custer led an expedition through here looking for a site for a fort and his men found gold nuggets “lying” around. People flocked to the area in search of riches. The town was almost washed away (it lies in a canyon / gulch) and later a series of fires almost destroyed it. After it was rebuilt in the early 1900’s, locals tried to make it look like a Wild West town with fake fronts. But a historical restoration society (shades of Fernandina Beach) stepped in and made all renovations adhere to the style of the late 1800’s at the time of the gold rush. Because of the enormous cost of renovation, the city fathers decided to utilize gambling to raise revenue. It was a tremendous success and raised far more revenue than anyone expected. As a result, the town was rebuilt about 40 years sooner than planned.

Today, almost every building in town has a casino and/or slot machines. This includes all the hotels, bars, motels, and restaurants. About the only buildings that don’t have slots are the schools, churches, and the local chamber of commerce visitor center. (We didn’t have time to do a thorough check of all establishments!) Because of it’s history and location, it doesn’t have the appearance, however, of a Vegas or Reno. More of a small town with lots of charm and ambiance – and gambling!

Driving back we passed through lots of forests and hills – with some snow on the ground from the previous night. We were only about 7,000 feet in elevation, so winter must be coming. Of course it is supposed to be 60 degrees here tomorrow and 75 on Monday and Tuesday! Is this a taste of Indian Summer?

The other town we went through was Sturgis. Not being Harley-Davidson people, we’d never heard of Sturgis. I know Lou Goldman has heard of it – right, Lou? As I understand it, Sturgis has a Bike Week and is similar to the one held in Daytona every year. The posters claimed this year is the 66th annual Bike Week in Sturgis. Harley-Davidson web-site has major coverage of this event. Lots of shops around the area selling shirts proclaiming Sturgis Bike Week, Harley-Davidson, and other paraphernalia. More than I need to know I think.

Tomorrow we’re going to explore the area east of Rapid City including the South Dakota Badlands and Grasslands.

Saturday, September 23, 2006

Friday - 22 Sept - between Custer and Rapid City


To the right is a photo of one of the tunnels and the looping road running under the bridge into the tunnel. And no, the motor home won't fit! There are several tunnels and wooden bridges on this road near Mt. Rushmore. A number of modern bridges in this area are made of wood rather than concrete or steel. Don't know how long they'll last but they're much more interesting to look at than concrete!

Friday - 22 Sept - Rapid City, SD


22 September - Friday

After working to catch up on the blogs for this week, we are almost up to date.

The rain and wind arrived in Rapid City, SD today as forecasted. I’m not sure of the exact temperature(s) but the rain and wind does make it uncomfortable to be outside for long without several layers of clothing. Fortunately, we dug out the winter gear earlier.

We picked up the rental car this a.m. and headed south past Mt. Rushmore. Even though it was raining, the clouds were above the Presidents’ heads so we got a good view. We plan to return on Sunday or Monday when it promises to be warmer and sunnier.

We continued past the mountain and visited the town of Custer and Custer State Park. Although many things around here are named in honor of Gen. George Armstrong Custer, the battle of Little Big Horn was farther to the west in Wyoming. But Custer did come through Rapid City and Black Hills in 1874 on an expedition to locate a possible army fort. It is quite well documented in a book called The Custer Expedition by Grafe and Horstead.

The town of Custer is right out of an old Western movie. Everything looks original. Many of the buildings have photos from the late 1800’s and haven’t changed very much. One of the town’s events is the Custer Buffalo Roundup and Annual Arts Festival to be held next weekend. A highlight of the weekend is the judging and auction of the Buffalo statues. Remember the cows in Chicago or the manatees in Jacksonville? Same idea -- only with a full-size bison statues are the three-dimensional canvases. Every corner has at least 4 life-size statues with more in mid-block, each completely different. The photo above is one of the statues in town. There’s also a chili cook-off, dancers, poets, western and Native American performers. Or you can participate in the Buffalo Chip Flip contest. CusterStatePark@state.sd.us. or www.CusterStatePark.info

We had a latte at an old hotel in town. The young lady who waited on us was from Romania. She has been here all summer and is returning home next week. Although she enjoyed the USA, she complained that all the food in Custer, SD was frozen – nothing was fresh. Interesting perspective.

We drove on through Custer State Park. It is reported to be home to one of the largest bison herds in the USA. But we saw only 4 bison. But we did see lots of wild turkeys, several antelope, and a large group of mountain goats. They were a hoot. The young ones were butting heads and leaping straight in the air like they were on the proverbial springs. The funny part is this all occurred right in the middle of a small campground. In fact, one of the campers was a bow-and-arrow hunter, busy getting his gear ready while a herd of mountain goats was cavorting around him!

Our return was via a small back-country road that wound through the hills. There were 5 one-lane tunnels cut into the mountain, and three switch-backs that crossed over themselves via wooden bridges! One set of bridges was called Pig’s Tail because the series crossed and re-crossed a steep chasm as the road spiraled downward thus resembling the curly-cue of a pig’s tail – and all made of large wooden timbers.

The one-lane tunnels were also fun because you were supposed to stop on your side and blow the horn to warn on-coming traffic. What was particularly fascinating on the two of the tunnels was that looking through the tunnel, the tunnel opening framed the Presidents’ carvings on Mt. Rushmore. We only had the “tiny” camera with us – not thinking we’d see much. We’ll return in the next few days with the “serious” cameras and see if we can get a good shot.
.

Friday, September 22, 2006

Thursday - 21 Sept - Rapid City, SD


Because I didn't get any photos today, I thought it appropriate to include one from yesterday of Margaret trying to hit me with a snowball. Fortunately my superior youth and agility enabled me to dodge the cold, snowy missile.

The drive from Devil’s Tower in Wyoming to Rapid City, SD is a short one – a little over 100 miles. Our intention was to see Mt. Rushmore (just south of here) and move on. But after learing of the variety of sights in this area, we decided to spend two nights.

This decision was confirmed when the campground manager said it would be raining the next two days (TV weather says there will be winds up to 50 mph) and cold (low 40’s doesn’t sound that cold, but with the rain and will it will be – what’s the word? – RAW. So we have decided to rent a car to see more of the area and leave on Tuesday next week (26 Sept). We’ll see how it goes.

I am surprised at the topography. I thought everything in South Dakota was flat prairie. But we are parked on “top” of a local hill with a nice view of the city below us. To the east, it looks pretty flat – beginning of the central US prairies; to the west are the Black Hills – apparently called that because the trees are a very dark green with dark brown trunks. We cannot see south yet because of the hills, but will drive down weather permitting.

The afternoon was spent catching up on finances (gotta pay the bills) and a well-deserved nap. Margaret has started a new book after finishing "The Grail Conspiracy". She reports it was not as good as DaVinci code although there are similarities.

The rain has started as a light sprinkle. The weatherman says it is raining harder to the south and east and will come through here tomorrow (Friday) and Saturday. It is supposed to be back up to the low 70's early next week. Looks like our plan to stay until Tuesday is a good one.

Tomorrow we're going to pick up the rental car and explore some of the area in the rain.

Wednesday - 20 September - Margaret at Devil's Tower


Walking around the Tower, you wend your way through enormous slabs sloughed off from the sides. It is difficult to tell which rocks are recent and which have been there for hundreds, thousands, tens of thousands of years - or more. They are huge. Margaret is standing in front of some of the smaller ones. As you can see, she's still as cute as ever, no lasting after effects from the pneumonia. And, she made it completely around the mountain - 1.3 miles / up / down and around. (We did take a short cut back to the motor home near the end of the trek. This required the dreaded "Don't leave the path." admonition. Don't tell the rangers, OK?)

Wednesday 20 Sept - Climbers on Devil's Tower


I know you're not going to be able to see it on the web-site photo, but just to the left of the tree branch (in the center) is a climber about 1/3 of the way up. There is also a support team on the first ledge below him, but they're difficult to see.

It was about 4 pm so I didn't know if he could make it to the top before dark or not. When we came around the Tower at 5 pm, he and two friends were about in the same place. We guess they were going to spend the night hanging from the wall. Not my idea of comfort.

Devil's Tower, WY - Wenesday 20 Sept


The problem with writing several days after the fact is I lose track of the day and what’s happening. Today is easier, because we’re here in Devil’s Tower, WY – home of the alien landing and Richard Dreyfus’ fight for the truth. As you can see, we're parked right at the foot of the Devil's Tower in the local KOA. Not many folks here which is good - and very quiet at night - Thanks!

Most of today was interstate 90 from Ranchester, WY, until we turned off to come to the Devil’s Tower. I always imagined the tower being tall, in the middle of prairie, visible for miles. But the approach from the southwest is through valleys and behind hills. You don’t see the tower until you literally right on top of it at the entrance to the park.

Although the long-range view is interesting, it is much more impressive when you walk around the base! About 1.3 miles they say and level grade. Well, they lie! At least, their idea of level and mine differ a great deal. But we made it. We watched folks climbing to the top, climbing down, and some just hanging there. We did talk to some on the trail who had just returned from the climb. If you’re interested, you can make it to the top – via rope and pitons – to the top in a little over 2 hours. A “casual” return trip is about 1 hour. No thanks!

The area around the base is littered with debris from the falling rocks. As you see from the photos, the rocks that make up the tower are geometric in form, usually 6 sided, but can take different shapes, including 3, 5, and even 8 sides. Several of the pieces at the base are the size of a small truck – and this is after they fell and were broken on the way down! The top is slightly domed and about the size of a football field. I’ll take their word for it.

It is easy to see why a movie was made here, it is an eerie sight. The columns look like extruded clay or the clay worms we made in kindergarten pressed together. It appears gray but a gray soften by green lichen and moss. At times it looks gray, or silver, or green, or violet. Birds circle the top, rock doves nest therein the crannies, and golden eagles ride the air currents at the top. I decided, looking at it from all angles, it looks like an up-side-down champagne cork.

More photos later from around the base. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Rapid City, SD and Mt. Rushmore.

Tuesday - 19 September - Suki and snow


Here we have it. A cat, raised in Florida, meeting snow (at 9,000+ feet) for the first time. I tried to capture him actually with a paw in the snow, but he was too quick getting it out! After two "touches", he had learned his lesson - don't go in the white stuff. It is cold and wet. But he was happy to wander around the parking lot looking at it.

The snow plows had been through and the snow was drifted up to the level of the guard rail - probably 30 inches deep. I have some scenic shots up towards Medicine Wheel and the Air Traffic Controller's Radar station(!) but I'll save that for a later show and tell.

It wasn't that cold, even at 9,000 feet and snow on the ground. With the sun and no wind, it was probably in the high 40's.

Tuesday - 19 Sept - Road Up Dead Indian Pass


After passing over the Sunlight Bridge (previous photo) and trying to rip off an awning, we proceeded up to Dead Indian Pass. The scenic byway is officially called Chief Joseph Highway in honor of the Nez Perce indian chief. Looking back down the mountain, I tried to capture the essence of the switchbacks. It would be more impressive if taken from an airplane, but you get the idea!

Tuesday - Sept 19th Ranchester, WY


Today, we departed Cooke City, MT and headed east with an intermediate destination of Cody, WY and hopefully, somewhere east of that on Interstate 90. This was not a good decision!

I worried when we left Cooke City if the roads would be open. As it turned out, Beartooth Highway to Billings, MT was CLOSED –snow at the pass. Fortunately, we had planned to head for Cody across Dead Indian Pass! Ominous sounding, yes? The pass was “only” 8,048 feet, but it is a Wyoming state highway, not noted for smooth surfaces and easy passage. But the lady in the coffee shop in Cooke City said it was an “easy” road. I was concerned because of the many squiggles on the map indicating switchbacks and sharp turns.

The good news was the road was in reasonably good condition with many beautiful sights along the way including the narrow bridge over the deep gorge (see photo). Our first “accident” of the trip occurred getting into the scenic overlook parking lot. I cut too sharp and tried to take out the awning over one of the slide-outs. I think I was able to fix it but time will tell.

Dead Indian Pass refers to an Indian war event where the Nez Perce Indians were chased by the US Cavalry and General Oliver Howard (cousin?) into Montana. (Reading about the Nez Perce Indian war is another example of the injustices done to the Indians by the US Government). In their attempt to elude the army pursuing them and make good their escape, they cross this high pass hoping to join other tribes to the east or flee north into Canada. A wounded warrior, unable to travel, was left at the pass. He was found and killed; the cavalry was still smarting from Little Big Horn and wanted revenge. In later days General Howard came to defend the Nez Perce cause and Chief Joseph. The scenic road followed their steps over the pass and was named for Chief Joseph. The pass itself was only 8,048 feet, and no problem despite the many switchbacks.

After some grocery shopping in Cody, WY (no, we didn’t see any of the Buffalo Bill Cody exhibits) we headed east. Unfortunately, because of a navigational error on my part (Miss Priss wasn’t consulted), we took an alternate route east. We ended up in the same place but we crossed many miles of US 14 marked as Road Damaged. They weren’t kidding. It climbed from 4,000 feet at Cody to over 10,000 feet enroute to Ranchester, WY.

In a way, it wasn’t too bad. We didn’t just cross the mountain range, we climbed to it and then rode along the crest. Thus the snow, snow, and snow. Suki – the cat – got his first taste of snow (a paw-full). Margaret threw her first snowball of the year at me. And we got to try out the engine brake going down-hill seemingly forever – at least to the driver. The last several miles were all steep, winding down the side of the mountains. It was a lot like landing in an airplane where you see the valley – where you’re going – but wondering how long it will take to get down!

Saw many prong-horned antelope and stunning vistas. At one spot there was an ancient stone medicine wheel atop a mountain ridge. The area is held sacred by the Indians even today, though the knowledge of who built the ring and why are lost in time. It is aligned with the solstice. The road up the mountain was dirt and snow, impassable – at lease for us.

We spent Tuesday night in Ranchester, WY, listening to trains all night. Shades of Salt Lake City.

Thursday, September 21, 2006

Monday - Sept 18th - Paintpots


Hard to get a really good photo of these bubbling water and mudpots without getting too close. Although it wasn't particuarly cold when we arrived, the super-heated water creates columns of steam visible from some distance away. The walk from the parking lot was reported to be 1/3 mile, but it seemed further by the time we got back.

Monday - 18 Sept - Elk


A quick blog to get this photo of a young elk, grazing by himself, away from the herd. The big bull elk was keeping his harem together and far away from this young one. Maybe next year he will be challenged?

Monday - Sept 18th - Cooke City, MT


Cooke City, MT - Monday 18th.

My last blog was posted on the 17th, in Bozeman, MT. A lot has happened since then so I will be writing these next 4 days in installments. If you read in them in order you’ll not get lost in our travels (also, the photos will make a lot more sense!). Margaret is now participating in writing the blogs; her input will be italicized so you’ll know who to blame!

As mentioned in the last blog, we made the decision to spend more time on the return trip doing tourist spots that we missed on the trip west and focus less on making time. As a result, we have cancelled (postponed?) visits to friends in Minnesota and Virginia. We’ll make up those in the future. Sorry, guys.

So on Sunday, the 17th, we headed south back into Yellowstone through the West entrance. For those unfamiliar with Yellowstone Park, there are 5 highway entrances: South (from the Grand Tetons) which we entered with Carol and Ryan back in July; East (from Cody, WY); Northeast (towards Billings); North (towards Gardiner / Livingston, MT); and West (via West Yellowstone, WY).

The town of West Yellowstone is the west entrance, boasting an array of shops and bars. Everything but the bars and grocery store will be closed in the coming weeks. Now about half of the shops are locked up tight, the other half having end of the season closeouts. We enjoyed a latte and browsed through the bookstore, increasing their net for the year.

During this tour through Yellowstone, we visited the Terrace Hot Springs, Artist’s Paintpots, circled Mt. Washburn, and exited through the Northeast entrance. Enroute we saw more wildlife than we had the previous 4 months! Got some good photos of elk and bison, including the above which I humbly label, “Sunday afternoon traffic in Yellowstone”. Saw lots of spectacular scenery including some really bad roads and some really hairy mountain passes. The highest road of the day was Dunraven Pass at 8,859 feet.

I’ll try posting additional blogs to include the elk and the paintpots.

This end of Yellowstone and the approach to it from Bozeman is absolutely lovely. We watched a herd of elk graze in a meadow, the bull being careful none of his harem roamed too far -- an adolescent male watched from a safe distance. The bull bellowed his dominance.

The trees are beginning to change and leaves fluttered about, but most of the trees are pines of one kind or another. This is the area of Yellowstone that was devastated by fire in 1988, fires that burned 36% of Yellowstone’s acreage. If you are interested go to: http://www.nps.gov/yell/naturescience/fire.htm. The charred hillsides are a stark reminder. Blacken tree skeletons still stand watch among the younger green trees which carpet the hillsides.

Besides elk, saw groups of bison (not buffalo), an eagles’ nest and a coyote - then herds of bison. Not much troubles them. They just amble along where they please.

We spent Sunday night just outside Yellowstone northeast entrance. The northeast entrance covers a most spectacular road, but not for the fainthearted. But if you’re really brave you can try the climb to Mt. Washburn; a dirt road circling – and climbing – to the observation building on top – at 10,245 feet. Not something you’d want to do unless you’re Robin Williams in RV!

At the end of the day, as we passed through Cooke City, MT, we found an almost deserted National Forest campground (one other camper) which we eagerly utilized. At 7,691 feet, it was very quiet and very cold – about 30 degrees Monday morning. But no bears or other wild life that we could determine. This despite the signs warning it was a grizzly area. Nervous night of hearing scratches and bumps.

Some little known facts (unless you’ve been there): Cooke City, MT is the highest elevation for any incorporated city in Montana; their annual snow fall is 205 inches; and approximately 207 inhabitants. We ate breakfast at the town hotel/lodge which stays open year round accommodating the cross country skiers and snow mobile-ers. Friendly people.

Sunday, September 17, 2006

Sunday 17 Sept - Bozeman MT


Because I haven’t taken any photos lately, I have been going back through some of those taken previously (since you haven’t seen them!). Today’s photo was taken by Margaret in northern Idaho and is typical of the many wheat fields we’ve seen in almost every state.

Sunday evening and Sunday football is on the telly: Dallas and the Redskins. Guess I should be interested but I’m not. Must be I miss the big screen at home?

We’re still in Bozeman but plan to pull out tomorrow a.m. After much discussion, Margaret and I have modified our travel plans. My computer travel planner tells me we’re 23 driving days from Fernandina Beach (at 225 miles per day - average). Having that information and with a return target of 10 October we have decided we can’t do everything we’d planned to do (and retain our sanity and marriage). So to all our friends we’d planned to see enroute – sorry, our visit will have to come later.

We didn’t get snow here today but the temperature never got above 50 degrees. The good news was, Margaret finally took a shower outside! (I did too, but since I’m the one writing the blog, it’s a writer’s prerogative to toss pebbles!). Seriously, between the cold and the less-than-desirable shower accommodations, we postponed things for a few days!

As promised, we spent the day reading, packing summer clothes, unpacking winter clothes, and doing minor chores around the motor home. One of the nuisances while driving is the windshield and the dash rub together with a squeak. I sprayed silicon lubricant on all the windshield rubber I could reach. We hope that it softens the rubber so it will stop squeaking. If not, I’m not sure what can be done except live with it.

I never realized how much “noise” there could be in a motor home. But then one has to understand that you’re surrounded by pots, pans, dishes, and cabinets, not to mention the usual mechanical chassis, engine, transmission, and road noise. So a lot of our “minor” chores have been chasing down squeaks and rattles where possible. We have actually eliminated several sources so it’s now bearable, but not silent!

Margaret chickened out on her hot springs experience this evening, guess it was too cold. But we both finished our respective books we’d been reading so the day wasn’t a total loss.

We're looking forward to getting back on the road tomorrow and seeing some new countryside.
Wayne

Saturday, September 16, 2006

Saturday 16 Sept - Bozeman, MT


Above is the Columbia River gorge crossing in Central Washington, just east of Ellensburg. It was taken from the same scenic overlook as the photos of the Wild Horse Monument (last blog). There are no photos from the last two days for reasons I will mention in a moment. While crossing the bridge, an F-16 flew down the river between the canyon walls. Margaret saw him coming, but I missed seeing anything but the shadow and the sound! So imagine, if you will, an F-16 in the photo just above the water!

I missed two days of blog because there was no Internet access, not even with my Verizon PC card. Some places (usually where no one lives!) just have no Internet service, no WiFi, no cell towers for data. So time passes.

As I mentioned in the last blog, we left Sequim on Wednesday, 13 Sept, and headed east, stopping in Ellensburg. Thursday, we made it through Spokane, WA and into Post Falls, ID (between Spokane and Coeur d’Alene) on I-90.

In Post Falls, I succumbed to an illness that I have been “nursing” for some time. At first, I thought I had “caught” Margaret’s pneumonia, but the doctor I located in Coeur d’Alene said pneumonia wasn’t contagious (not what Margaret’s doctor had told her). In any case, he said my lungs were clear, my oxygen exchange was good, and what I had was a bad sinus infection which blocking my breathing big time. So he gave me a week’s supply of antibiotic and nose spray and sent me on my way. The worst of my symptoms cleared up this morning at 12:33 a.m.! So I’m better today, but not completely cured.

After taking most of the morning trying to find the clinic in Coeur d’Alene, we continued east through the Idaho panhandle and spent the night next to the Clark Fork River in Alberton, MT. Pretty site complete with Casino, Restaurant, and Motel 3 ½. Not much there there so we left late this morning. (And No, we'd didn't gamble; you could cut the smoke in the casino with a dull knife!)

As we were passing thru Butte, MT we hit our first snow “storm”. Just a few flakes in the pass, at 6,393 feet elevation. But the mountains and hills were completely covered with snow. Just think, it probably won’t melt until next April. And people live here year round!

Our resting spot for the next two nights will be the Bozeman Hot Springs KOA. There is a hot springs spa next door which Margaret says she will try out tomorrow. A report on that experience later.

We expect it to freeze here tonight – maybe snow, too. We’re only 85 miles north of Yellowstone Nat’l Park and had planned to go there on our return leg, but we seem to be running a little late in our “schedule”, so we will probably press on Monday a.m.

Tomorrow is a rest day. A day filled with minor chores, relaxing, reading a book, doing the hot springs spa thing (Margaret, not me), and in general kicking back. Something we don’t seem to have done enough of the past four months. Hard to believe we moved out of the house on April 22 and left Pecan Park RV Park (near JAX) on May 2nd. It will be over 5 months on the road when we finally get back. Who’d thunk it?

Thursday, September 14, 2006

Post Falls, ID - 14 September


Nope, never did get a picture of picturesque Ellensburg. Never found the right street or whatever. Downtown was quaint in the old town sense, but between not finding a place to park and running a little late, we pressed on.

Instead, today’s photo is of Wild Horse Monument on the banks of the Columbia River gorge in central Washington. The following is an entry from a Google search regarding these statues:
"Okay, you do have to look at them from the right angle to enjoy the artist's remarkable talent. These beautiful and surprisingly lifelike sculptures -- sixteen horses in all -- stand on a bluff overlooking the Columbia River near the town of Vantage in central Washington. If you aren't expecting them, their silhouettes will have you believing you're looking at a real herd thundering up the ridgeline.
The wild horses, which are made of welded steel plates, are the work of Spokane artist David Govedare.


For more information and other photos, check out - http://www.roadtripamerica.com/whatsit/78b.htm.

Other events of the day included wondering if we were going to make it through snow! The gentleman at the campground last night said folks were having trouble going north from Ellensburg because of the forecast for 1 inch of snow! Guess we’d better get a hustle on and get out of the north country ASAP. We don’t have chains. We did drive through several light showers, but no snow (yet).

Central Washington is unlike western Washington state. It is basically a desert, although with irrigation, many crops can and are grown including potatoes, peppermint, corn, and the usual feed crops for cattle. When the light is right (as it was today), driving through you can imagine you’re in Kansas or Iowa with the golden brown fields of wheat. As you near Spokane however, you’re greeted with lava fields.

Tomorrow we’ll head through the panhandle of Idaho and enter the wide, wide state of Montana. Idaho, on I-90, is less than 74 miles across, while Montana (on I-90) is over 740 miles! Texas (via I-10) is just under 900 miles across which probably makes Montana the second largest state in width (measured by interstate routing). We will probably spend several nights in Montana!

Today is my birthday (thanks). We are going to celebrate tonight with a bottle of Moet d’Chandon champagne that I have been carting around since our Anniversary (late July – Margaret was in D.C. then), her illness in early August, and other big events that didn’t get celebrated properly.

By the way, in case I didn’t mention, one of the by-products of Margaret’s medication was the loss of taste and smell. So she has been off wine for over 5 weeks. (More for me?) But I’m sure she’ll have a small taste of champagne tonight.

Wednesday - Windy Washington a.k.a. Ellensburg, WA


On the road again…

We left Sequim, WA, this a.m. and headed east, crossing part of Puget Sound on the Kingston – Edmonds’ ferry. A great way to get around – much better than a big, impersonal bridge (or driving around). Although we just missed a departure, the next was only 35 minutes later and gave us a chance to finish packing, making phone calls, and partaking of the omni-present latte!

During the crossing (only 30 minutes) we crossed the wake of the John C. Stennis aircraft carrier (one of the Navy’s newest). I make this statement without being absolutely positive since I couldn’t see the name. But it had the number 74 on the superstructure and Google reports that CVN-74 is the John C. Stennis carrier. There was one F-18 on the aft deck. Very impressive – sorry I didn’t get a photo, but we weren’t that close to it.

Took the northern route around Lake Washington / Seattle on I-405 to pick up I-90 eastbound through Snoqualmie Pass. Lots and lots of traffic – and it was only mid-day on a Wednesday. Hate to see what it looks like at rush hour!

Because we got away a little late, we only made it as far as Ellensburg, WA. As soon as we got through Snoqualmie Pass, the wind picked up. This was the “same” wind I drove into on I-90 coming west last month. Guess it must blow west to east all the time? Quite blustery, but since it was blowing me along, I got really great gas mileage(?). Shoulda put out the sail!

Tomorrow we will take a quick detour through Ellensburg. We’re told it’s a picturesque town. Maybe take a photo or two?

Assuming we have no more, unexpected illnesses or other, our goal is to try and be back in Fernandina Beach around 10 October. But it is still our desire to swing through Minneapolis, MN and Alexandria, VA and see friends on the way home. We’ll see how that goes as the trip progresses.

No, today's photo isn't in Washington, or anything recent for that matter. Since I started this blog-thing in Idaho Falls, I thought it appropriate I should dig back through my files and find something from there. The view is of the Snake River looking north towards the Idaho Falls LDS Temple. Although not visibile in the photo, there are beautiful parks on both sides of the river in the downtown area. Very nice.

Best wishes to all - Wayne

Tuesday, September 12, 2006

Monday night - 9/11 - Sequim, WA


It’s late Monday evening and I had trouble getting to sleep so I thought I’d toss off a blog since I missed yesterday.

One of the northwest US phenomena is the ubiquitous coffee shop on every corner and in every parking lot; at least it seems that way. I wanted to get a photo of one of the many drive thru espresso / java shops that dot the area, but never found exactly the right one. Yesterday during a drive over to Port Angeles, we saw one – still not exactly representative of the drive-thru coffee joints – but the sign said “Espresso – Guns”. Seemed like a lethal combination: legal stimulants and deadly force! So we drove around to the other side and got the full story. Still would like to find one of the stand-alone stands in the middle of the hardware store parking lot. Only in the northwest – home of Starbucks!

The good weather continues to last in Sequim. Highs in the low 70’s and evenings in the mid 40’s. But Fall is supposed to arrive Thursday with rain and lower temperatures. We are planning to leave town Wednesday and get through the Seattle traffic before inclement weather arrives.

We’ve been fortunate on this long journey to have not driven in heavy rain. The only “bad” weather was serious wind in central Washington. Of course there was the tornado that just missed us in northern Texas, but that was in the evening while we trying to sleep! It went on to kill 3 folks in a town we had driven through earlier in the day. Wayne’s Weather Word: don’t drive in the mid-West in early Spring or early Fall. I think we’ll try to avoid it by going a more northerly route home.

Margaret continues to improve and gets more feisty every day. In other words, more like normal!

Tomorrow we’ll wrap up with some last-minute provisioning at the local Costco and other shops. Tend to some last-minute fine dining at a local restaurant and tie up some business loose ends for heading out.

Shell and Lynn have been great hosts during this stopover in Sequim. Their home and home-site continue to be beautiful with views of the Olympic mountain range, the Straits of Juan de Fuca and Canada (Vancouver Island). We have also been treated to rare views of Mt. Baker – a long way inland and close to the Canadian Border – another in the string of dormant volcanoes stretching from Canada into northern California. Of course, Mt. St. Helens upset that dormancy back in 1980. The string of large volcano cones include: Baker, Rainier, Adams, Hood, St. Helens, Lassen, and Shasta. On a really clear day it is possible to all of them from an airplane (at altitude). It is quite impressive.

More tomorrow if possible. Otherwise, I’ll write from the road – hopefully in central Washington on the east side of the Cascades.

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Sunday 10 Sep - Sequim, WA


Here it is, already 10 September, I have missed 3 days of blogging. You must be wondering what happened.

We had a successful departure from Olympia, WA, i.e., nothing fell off as we were leaving the campground! The drive along the west side (U.S. 101) of the Hood Canal went well even though it is a continuous series of curves and swoops around the various inlets and bays, through small fishing villages clinging to the side of the hill, usually straddling a stream running into the bay. We made the 115 mile trip in just over 2 hours.

We are now “camped” in the driveway of Shell and Lynn McGuire’s home in Sequim, WA. In case you’re not familiar with Sequim, it is a growing town, half-way between Port Angeles and Port Townsend at the north end of the Olympic Peninsula. We can see Vancouver Island and the San Juan Islands across the Strait of Juan de Fuca from our motor-home. I use the term “growing” because when the McGuire’s moved here from Los Angeles in the early 90’s, Sequim was small. But since then, everyone seems to be moving here! And the town is having growing pains like every small town that is “discovered”.

Friday, we went to the Wooden Boat Festival in Port Townsend – about 40 miles east. Even though it had been cool and cloudy in Sequim, we figured the weather would clear as the day progressed. When we arrived in Port Townsend, it was foggy and quite cool. Naturally, I had “under-dressed” and was very uncomfortable (brrrrr….). So I contributed to the Festival’s economy and bought a $19 sweatshirt for $45. Within minutes, the sun had come out and the temperature was in the high 70’s! So I received credit and accolades for clearing the weather! You’re all welcome!

We were lucky in finding a parking place down-town. Unfortunately, it was limited to 2- hours, so we were unable to have lunch in any of the excellent restaurants in town. We found sustenance in the Chimicum Café (about 10 miles south of Port Townsend). Shell and Lynn said they first heard about this café in Gourmét magazine. Oysters are the specialty of the café, but Shell had a chocolate milkshake, onion rings, and blackberry pie with scoops of ice cream for lunch!

It rained Friday night – a rare occurrence for Sequim which averages less than 12 inches of rain per year. Still cool with lows in the 40’s with a strong breeze off the strait. Our heater ran pretty much all night. We decided we’d better “hook-up” to Shell’s house to keep our batteries charged, so we have 100+ feet of extension cord running to an outlet. (If we tried to run both air conditioners and microwave, we’d blow every fuse in his house! Lucky it’s cool here!) We also ran out of water, so we cobbled together various hoses to fill our tank – still wouldn’t reach, so I closed up shop (i.e., pulled in the slides and levelers) and drove 50 feet closer to the house. We’re all set now – if he only cable TV hook-ups (but he does have wi-fi so we can communicate with the outside world).

It’s quiet here on the north shore of the USA. We watch DVD’s at night (RV was quite a hit), have good conversation, eat – and eat – and eat, and of course daytime naps! Great fun. We’ll go exploring today (Sunday) to what kind of shopping trouble we can get into.

The photo of Shell and Lynn is from the Wooden Boat Festival. Lots of boats; mostly sail models with a few power boats thrown in. A number of “home-made” boats, lovingly hand-crafted and finished with countless coats of varnish. Beautiful creations, even if they never get wet!

Margaret continues to make progress and is now nearly back to full fighting strength.

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Wednesday 6 September - Olympia, WA


This will likely be our last report from Olympia, WA. Today is scheduled for last minute chores and cleanup before we head out tomorrow a.m. to Sequim, WA to visit our friends, Shell and Lyn McGuire. Chores include laundry, cleaning carpet spots (don’t know it can get so dirty in such a short time), and a visit to a local Oriental restaurant we spotted last weekend.

First, a tribute to our traveling companions and friends for much of the summer, Connie Wright and Harold Cleveland (in photo above). In addition to accompanying us to Canada in June, we have gambled at the local Indian casino, eaten fine food at their beautiful home, and played more than a few games of cards. Harold made me promise to report on his prowess at Hearts in a blog, so here it is: Harold; don’t give up your day job! Seriously, great fun and great experiences this summer. Thanks, guys.

Yesterday’s outing to get the motor-home serviced went well. Folks in Chehalis were helpful and accommodating. I learned that our electrical generator in the motor-home runs on propane (I thought it ran on diesel fuel). They found a broken bracket underneath the motor-home and welded it back (without asking first). Another first: a $500 oil-change bill! To be fair, it was a lot more work than a simple oil change. They replaced all air cleaners (which were probably in really bad shape), serviced the generator, lubed the chassis, etc. In all, roughly 6 hours of work.

While under the unit they discovered some bad stabilizer bar bushings and suggested a place a few blocks away. When one is on the road, it is always a crap-shoot whether you can get service quickly, or even the same week! But those folks rearranged their work schedule to work on the unit. They confirmed the bushings were bad, but did not have replacement parts – have to get that at an RV dealer – but it was not safety-critical. They did find uneven tire wire on the front and were able to do a front end check and alignment. (And yes, I confirmed that the front tires were wearing unevenly, although I might not have realized it until too late to save the tires.)

Although I have not spoken of Margaret’s health / progress recently, it is because she has been making excellent recovery. According to the medical folks in Idaho Falls, she is roughly half way through the recovery phase. She no longer needs a nap every time she empties the trash! Her sense of humor has returned. This two-week stay-in-one-place is what was needed.

Got to run. Things to do. Places to go. Money to win at the casino – last chance!

Wayne

Monday, September 04, 2006

Monday - Labor Day - Olympia, WA


The first few times we drove past this bronze art, we hardly noticed it. The couple is life-size and fits right in with the wharf. It’s only when you realize what you’re seeing that you appreciate what the artist accomplished.

The campground is getting quieter this p.m. as folks end their Labor Day outing and head for home. Sure glad we’re not going to be on the roads today. I hear that the I-5 is a veritable parking lot in both directions. Nice to relax, take a nap, and enjoy the last few days of summer. I know the locals would like some rain – it is reported to be the longest drought on record – but as tourist, it’s nice to have sunshine and balmy temperatures.

I head out tomorrow at oh-dark-thirty (that’s 6 a.m. for the rest of you) so I can be at the service center at 7:00 a.m. Since I’m not sure where I’m going, so I’ll leave a little extra time to find it. It’s a small town (Chehalis) so I doubt that I’ll get too lost. Besides, I have Miss Priss to help me find way. For those of you who haven’t met Miss Priss, she’s our GPS Navigator. Usually she’s pretty good, but there was the time we were looking for a US Post Office and she sent us to a horse pasture next to a housing development. She spent some time in the closet over that one! If you’ve seen the movie, RV, you’ll know how we talk to Miss Priss (Robin Williams named theirs, Lola).

Margaret and Suki-cat are going to spend the night with Connie and Harold so I can get an early start. Not sure what I’ll do tomorrow while in Chehalis, but I’m sure something will turn up. Until then…

Wayne

Sunday, September 03, 2006

Sunday 3 Sep - Olympia, WA


A lazy day in the South Sound a.k.a. Olympia, WA. Although Fall is nearly here, the weather continues to be balmy with sunny skies – a post-card day for the local Chamber of Commerce.

This weekend, Labor Day, is another “festival” day in Olympia – Harbor Days. In addition to the tug-boat races, there are street vendors set up along the waterfront hawking their wares. This is addition to the regular Farmers’ Market that takes place every weekend from April through October. Both venues are within a few blocks of one another so it gets quite congested and parking is limited.

Today we had breakfast at the Spar Café. Built in 1935, it retains the décor of the 30’s with bar counter, high ceilings, and photos of the logging industry from the early 20th century. The menu is extensive and food superb. I had Dungeness crab omelet – something that you don’t see at Denny’s or corner coffee shop. Margaret settled for eggs Benedict and declared them excellent. We had eaten at the Spar Café back in the late 80’s when we were in town. It hadn’t changed in 20 years.

After breakfast we wandered the downtown streets. Seemed like every other shop was a Oriental Restaurant, Indian cuisine, and a place advertising Bar food (whatever that is). One could spend several weeks here and never eat at the same place twice. We’re not sure if it’s because Olympia is a college town or because it’s the state capital of Washington.

We also found a unique wine store. They were having wine tasting from 2 – 4 this afternoon but we couldn’t stay. I call it unique because they had wines and labels I’d never seen before; mostly small boutique wineries from Washington and Oregon but also some from California, South Africa, and other countries. A very diverse collection. When you enter the store, they have stacks of assorted wines in boxes along the front. When asked about these, they said the wines were their favorites and reasonably priced. Novel concept for a wine store! (They also had several bottles at $75 and above, so they weren’t completely cheap!) They had me convinced when I found the stack of Cartlidge and Brown Pinot Noir they had labeled as the best inexpensive Pinot Noir to be had. Since this is one of my all-time favorites I decided they knew what they were talking about!

We finished the afternoon with our favorite p.m. past-time – a nap. We’re going to pick up a bake-it-at-home pizza from Doby’s which is reported to be better than PaPa Murphy. We’ll report back on that.

Today’s photo is from yesterday’s tug-boat race assemblage. Actually the race was today so we missed it. But yesterday many of the tugs were parked together in the harbor and the public was invited to walk on aboard and see what a working tug looks like. Most were shiny and clean; probably not the way they appear when actually at work! I found it difficult to get really good photos. When you’re unfamiliar with the subject, it’s hard to know what will and won’t work. Although you may not be able to see it in the photo, the Olympic mountain range is a faint outline on the horizon and there is a small group of kayakers heading out into Budd Inlet- the south end of Puget Sound.

Friday, September 01, 2006

September 1 - Olympia, WA


Here it is, the 1st of September. Where does the time go? Local weather (Olympia, WA) feels like a pre-Fall day. Cool at night, around 50 degrees, and up to high 70’s in the p.m. It is supposed to be close to 90 degrees tomorrow, but then cooler next week. Doesn’t feel like Florida!

Went to a new grocery store yesterday. Wide aisles, brightly lit; good choices of fresh-baked bread and more cheeses; found a bottle of wine I’d been looking for. Huge selection. Guess that goes with being in the “wine” country. Too bad we don’t have more time to visit them all! And that’s without dipping down into Oregon, home of the Willamette Pinot Noir. So many wines; so little time!

Our local fire continues to smolder. The state has put out a “Red Flag” warning for western Washington state – high fire danger (low humidity, brisk winds, high temperature). Again, we’re lucky that our fire happened the one night there was no wind and relatively high humidity. Wonder if that was all luck or was there a human element in the start of the fire?

The campground is starting to fill up for the Labor Day weekend. We were fortunate to be able to stay. But we really haven’t had too many disappoints during the trip in terms of being able to get in to pretty much wherever we wanted to stay.

There is supposed to be a lot to do this weekend in the Olympia area. The salmon are spawning; always fun to watch them swim upstream and jump the falls. Then there is to be tug boat race. Plus other things to keep one occupied (not to mention food!).

Next Tuesday, I’ll be taking the motor-home (really should come up with a name) in for its first oil change servicing. Had to look around for a reliable service center. There is a Cummins engine / Onan generator shop in Chehalis – about 20 miles south of us – and that’s where I plan to spend Tuesday. Hope that doesn’t turn out to be too exciting (or expensive).

Visited the Indian casino again this a.m. for breakfast. I’ve now managed to give them back most of the money I won last week. Guess that’s how they stay in business!

Today’s photo is taken at a local deli and their home-made, Buck Rogers rocket ship! Always something new to see!

Wayne